Gond and Bhonsle Period Walk (Concluding Part)

 Gond and Bhonsle Period Walk (Concluding Part)

After Motha Rajwada, Bhonsle Palace, we proceeded through narrow lanes barely three feet wide, used only by locals and those doing the Gond and Bhonsle period walk , to our next and last destination, viz., Rukmini and Laxmi Narayan Temple complex.

Exiting the narrow lane, we came out on Gandhi Gate Road, a proper two-lane road. Stopped at the mouth of yet another narrow lane, which is right opposite of Deshmukh Wada.

Deshmukh Wada is in ruins today. It was known for its unique blend of Maratha and British architectural styles, which are partly visible even today.

The wada was also the site of the Swadeshi Mill, established by Baburao Deshmukh.

It was huge and had a long frontage on the road. The portion to the right of the image has been demolished to make room for modern commercial/ residential construction.

After the introduction to Deshmukh Wada, we entered the narrow lane and proceeded towards Rukmani Temple. The area is a warren on narrow lanes dotted with huge stone gates, many complete with nagarkhans. For a newcomer, it would appear like a maze.

So many huge stone gates in such close proximity would suggest strong security as was provided to the residences of the queens and ladies of the royal family.

After one such gate, we entered the courtyard of the MahadevTemple, also known as Raghu Rajeshwar Temple. On the left, there appeared to be private houses, most probably of the Pandits in charge of the temple.

There is a Baradari-type of structure in front and two smaller temples of Ganesh and Hanuman are on the left and right of the main temple. Shree Ganesh Temple is on the left of the Mahadev Temple, and Hanuman Temple is on the right of the Mahadev Temple.

The surroundings are not well-maintained.

After looking around and a photo shoot, we entered yet another courtyard where the Laxminarayan Temple is located. It is also called Rukmini Temple, named after Rukmini Bai, a courtesan of the Bhonsla royal court. The temple is said to have been built during the reign of Raje Raghuji III, the Bhonsla king of Nagpur.

As you enter, on the left is a strongly built fortified wall with another huge stone gate, most probably separating the living quarters of royal ladies and the temple complex. a lot of 'malba' and ruble were piled all along the wall. On the left of the courtyard were the ruins of a collapsed structure, which may have been living quarters at one time.

Other than the temple itself, which appeared to have been given a coat of decorative paint, there was strong evidence of gross neglect and decay all around.

Laxminarayan Temple is modest in size. What it lacks in size, it makes it up amply by the sheer beauty of the stone and wood carving and statues.

Recently painted pillars and arches of the mandapam looked very beautiful. Carvings were beautiful and exquisite.

On top of the arches, musical Instrument players support and form the eaves of the temple roof. They are a bit difficult to spot due to the total absence of colour contrast. With the arches, just below them, done up so nicely, it is difficult to imagine why they were left with such a drab and dark grey colour.

The shikhar and the temple walls are one of the finest examples of exquisitely carved and engraved statues and motifs in stone and woodwork.

It was absolute bliss to look at such a beauty.

With this, our walk "Gond and Bhonsle Period " came to an end..

I am giving a link to an excellent article on Laxminarayan Temple written by Maitrayee Sangitrao and published in The Hatavada, a local paper.

hehitavada.com/Encyc/2023/4/30/Rukmini-Temple-complex-

On the way back to home by metro.

Gond and Bhonsla Period Walk. (Part III)

 Gond and Bhonsla Period Walk. (Part III)

After Baka Baik ka Wada, we proceed to Motha Rajwada ( Senior King's Palace, in Marathi, motha means bigger as well as senior in age, also referred to as "The Mahal", giving an identity to the areas located around it.

After walking through narrow passages and streets for some time, we saw a magnificent and huge gate constructed with granite stones, with a naharkhana. It had nice, antique-looking street lights on either side and was high and wide enough for the passage of an elephant with a ​हौदा (Howdah).

A simple wooden name plate simply proclaimed " श्री, Senior Bhonsle Palace, मोठा राजवाडा with Sun emblem on either side.". Quite impressive in its simplicity.

With high expectations, we walked to the gate and had a look inside. It was a bit disappointing. We saw a huge courtyard with a fence running on the left. On the right, along the wall, around 14 odd cages built in two tiers with birds, rabbits, a dog and other animals. Further along few twenty-litre RO water drums were kept helter-skelter, a few of them lying on the ground. Dismantling of the bamboo structure was also going on. Overall impression was a laissez-faire approach towards the maintenance of the courtyards and neglect. Some relief to this disappointing scene was provided by a quaking flock of geese waddling around in the courtyard. There were some SUVs, some sedans, all told about 7 to 9 vehicles were also parked in the garage/ courtyard.

On a nicely maintained and white painted wall coat of arm of Bhonsle royalty in shining brass was mounted. It looked good and impressive.

An equestrian statue of Chhattrapati Shivaji Maharaj with couple of cannons below the pedestal in the centre of the courtyard looked beautiful and impressive.

A two-story facade of the Senior Bhonsle Palace was not impressive at all.

A family tree going back almost eight generations, even before Chhattrapati Shivaji Maharaj, is displayed in a Small veranda in the centre of this building.

The family tree and the history of the Bhonsle dynasty were explained by our 'walk' conductor. I must confess I did not pay much attention.

We also saw the armoury maintained at the palace.

A small room. Three side walls of which were full of hundreds of mounted swords, knives, bows and arrows, spears and javelins and other contemporary weapons. An impressive collection.

The Palace is a private property and is currently occupied by three surviving heirs of the Bhonsale dynasty.

After having seen many palaces all over the country, this came as as a bit of a let down.

This wound up our walk and visit to Motha Rajwada.

Gond and Bhonsle Period Walk. (Part II)

 Gond and Bhonsle Period Walk. (Part II)

After looking at the last bastion, बुरुज, standing of the once fortified walls of the Palace of the Gond King, through narrow lanes and now a main thoroughfare, Kalyaneshwar Mandir Road, we proceeded towards Baka Bai Ka Wada.

Baka Bai Ka Wada means the residential palace, yes, you read it right, a palace, because it was built on a grand scale and spread over a huge area. It was built around 1936 from stones brought from Jodhpur and Udaipur and workmen from Rajasthan and Bengal. It was built for and named after Baka Bai, who was the third and favourite wife of Shrimant Raje Raghuji Bhosle II.

In the front portion of Baka bai ka wada, Shrimant Raje Raghuji Bhosle II held court and dispensed justice. Kotwal ( Police Chief) also operated from the rooms there. Due to usage by Kotwal, this part came to be called Kotwali. A name that remains in use even today. This portion was handed over to the Government of India in 1937 and today houses the Police Station and the Office of the Assistant Commissioner of Police.

After a couple of photos and being informed of the history, we proceeded toward the rear portion of Baka Kai ka Wada.

In 1869, the remaining rear portion of Baka Bai Ka Wada was handed over to Neelcity High School, an educational institution. On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of Neil City High School, the institution was renamed Shri Dadasaheb Dhanwate Nagar Vidyalaya. It is the oldest and a famous educational Institute in Nagour.

Today, after extensive changes in the wada building by the school administration, only two courtyards and a hall remain from the original building of Baka Bai ka Wada.

While Baka Bai ka Wada now exists only in name after having been converted into a school and a Kotwali (Police Station), it still serves as a testament to the rich history and architectural heritage of Nagpur.