Chokaling Monastery, Bir.

 Chokkalinga Monestry, Bir.

After having lunch in Tenzin Jamdol Cafe, we started for Chokalinga Monastery.

Our driver did not know the way. Ajeet entered the location and obtained the directions on Google Maps. It took us to the side gate located on the northeast side of the main courtyard of the monastery near a beautiful stupa, whereas the main entrance to the monastery is through the monastery park on the south-southwestern part of the monastery.  

It was quite hot with the sun glaring down from a cloudless sky. There was no shade in the courtyard, and no one wanted to walk around in the sun, so naturally we sought refuge in the main building of the monastery. So, none of us saw the main entrance and the beautiful eight chortens located there except me, who, being curious by nature, had ventured up to the top of the gate.

The verandah of the main building had shades made of white cloth to offer protection from the heat. It was calm, quiet and serene and importantly cool in the main building of the monastery. The walls of the varandha were covered with beautiful paintings in vibrant and vivid colours typical of monasteries all over the country. The paintings depicted the mythological stories and events in the life of Buddha.

The main hall houses the statue of Padmasambhava or Guru Rinpoche, who was a Buddhist master of the 8th Century. Small statues of Buddha are mounted in two rows, all along the walls at a height of 8 to 9 feet. These statues presented an impressive sight. Here again, the pillars were painted with beautiful designs. The walls had two bas-reliefs etched nicely and looking amazingly beautiful. After paying our respects and offering short prayers, we left for the second main building of the monastery.

The varandha has a big golden gong. Inside, a huge golden stupa dominates the hall. It is a very fine example of Tibetan art and craft and is beautifully made and painted.

Along the rear wall, there are three statues, one of Amitayus and two white statues of Bodhisattvas.

Immediately behind the golden stupa is a beautiful golden statue of Green Tara. The statue is framed by an arch with vines, flowers and leaves motifs with small golden statues of goddesses. Looked amazingly beautiful. 

The paintings in vibrant and vivid in colours and have a mesmerising effect, and you fondly remember their beauty long after leaving the monastery.

Stupa at Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh. Located near the side gate northeast side of the main courtyard

Main courtyard. The Main entrance is visible to the left of the photo. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

2nd Main Building. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

1st Main Building. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

1st Main Building. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

1st Main Building. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

Golden Statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

 

Walls are adorned with numerous Buddha statues. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

The door. An artistic masterpiece of wood, metal, engraving and proportions. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

The Golden Stupa. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

The central red statue is likely a depiction of Amitayus, the Buddha of Infinite Life, while the white statues on either side could be Bodhisattvas, beings who have attained enlightenment but postpone Buddhahood to help others. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

The items in the image are called Torma, which are ritual objects used in Tibetan Buddhism. They are typically made of dough and are often decorated with butter and paint. They are used as offerings in various ceremonies and practices. This particular offering consists of 12 tormas, which are cone-shaped sculptures made of dough or clay, often decorated with butter and food colouring. These tormas are arranged on a wooden tray in front of two statues of Buddhist figures. The tormas have a white base and a circular top with a pink or blue centre, which is a common design for offerings in Tibetan Buddhism. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

Statue of Green Tara, a meditation deity in Tibetan Buddhism known for her compassion. Green Tara is often depicted with a green complexion and is associated with protection and overcoming obstacles. This particular statue is adorned with golden details. Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

Ceremonial Drum, Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

Chokling Monastery, Bir, Himachal Pradesh.

Gond and Bhonsle Period Walk (Concluding Part)

 Gond and Bhonsle Period Walk (Concluding Part)

After Motha Rajwada, Bhonsle Palace, we proceeded through narrow lanes barely three feet wide, used only by locals and those doing the Gond and Bhonsle period walk , to our next and last destination, viz., Rukmini and Laxmi Narayan Temple complex.

Exiting the narrow lane, we came out on Gandhi Gate Road, a proper two-lane road. Stopped at the mouth of yet another narrow lane, which is right opposite of Deshmukh Wada.

Deshmukh Wada is in ruins today. It was known for its unique blend of Maratha and British architectural styles, which are partly visible even today.

The wada was also the site of the Swadeshi Mill, established by Baburao Deshmukh.

It was huge and had a long frontage on the road. The portion to the right of the image has been demolished to make room for modern commercial/ residential construction.

After the introduction to Deshmukh Wada, we entered the narrow lane and proceeded towards Rukmani Temple. The area is a warren on narrow lanes dotted with huge stone gates, many complete with nagarkhans. For a newcomer, it would appear like a maze.

So many huge stone gates in such close proximity would suggest strong security as was provided to the residences of the queens and ladies of the royal family.

After one such gate, we entered the courtyard of the MahadevTemple, also known as Raghu Rajeshwar Temple. On the left, there appeared to be private houses, most probably of the Pandits in charge of the temple.

There is a Baradari-type of structure in front and two smaller temples of Ganesh and Hanuman are on the left and right of the main temple. Shree Ganesh Temple is on the left of the Mahadev Temple, and Hanuman Temple is on the right of the Mahadev Temple.

The surroundings are not well-maintained.

After looking around and a photo shoot, we entered yet another courtyard where the Laxminarayan Temple is located. It is also called Rukmini Temple, named after Rukmini Bai, a courtesan of the Bhonsla royal court. The temple is said to have been built during the reign of Raje Raghuji III, the Bhonsla king of Nagpur.

As you enter, on the left is a strongly built fortified wall with another huge stone gate, most probably separating the living quarters of royal ladies and the temple complex. a lot of 'malba' and ruble were piled all along the wall. On the left of the courtyard were the ruins of a collapsed structure, which may have been living quarters at one time.

Other than the temple itself, which appeared to have been given a coat of decorative paint, there was strong evidence of gross neglect and decay all around.

Laxminarayan Temple is modest in size. What it lacks in size, it makes it up amply by the sheer beauty of the stone and wood carving and statues.

Recently painted pillars and arches of the mandapam looked very beautiful. Carvings were beautiful and exquisite.

On top of the arches, musical Instrument players support and form the eaves of the temple roof. They are a bit difficult to spot due to the total absence of colour contrast. With the arches, just below them, done up so nicely, it is difficult to imagine why they were left with such a drab and dark grey colour.

The shikhar and the temple walls are one of the finest examples of exquisitely carved and engraved statues and motifs in stone and woodwork.

It was absolute bliss to look at such a beauty.

With this, our walk "Gond and Bhonsle Period " came to an end..

I am giving a link to an excellent article on Laxminarayan Temple written by Maitrayee Sangitrao and published in The Hatavada, a local paper.

hehitavada.com/Encyc/2023/4/30/Rukmini-Temple-complex-

On the way back to home by metro.

Gond and Bhonsla Period Walk. (Part III)

 Gond and Bhonsla Period Walk. (Part III)

After Baka Baik ka Wada, we proceed to Motha Rajwada ( Senior King's Palace, in Marathi, motha means bigger as well as senior in age, also referred to as "The Mahal", giving an identity to the areas located around it.

After walking through narrow passages and streets for some time, we saw a magnificent and huge gate constructed with granite stones, with a naharkhana. It had nice, antique-looking street lights on either side and was high and wide enough for the passage of an elephant with a ​हौदा (Howdah).

A simple wooden name plate simply proclaimed " श्री, Senior Bhonsle Palace, मोठा राजवाडा with Sun emblem on either side.". Quite impressive in its simplicity.

With high expectations, we walked to the gate and had a look inside. It was a bit disappointing. We saw a huge courtyard with a fence running on the left. On the right, along the wall, around 14 odd cages built in two tiers with birds, rabbits, a dog and other animals. Further along few twenty-litre RO water drums were kept helter-skelter, a few of them lying on the ground. Dismantling of the bamboo structure was also going on. Overall impression was a laissez-faire approach towards the maintenance of the courtyards and neglect. Some relief to this disappointing scene was provided by a quaking flock of geese waddling around in the courtyard. There were some SUVs, some sedans, all told about 7 to 9 vehicles were also parked in the garage/ courtyard.

On a nicely maintained and white painted wall coat of arm of Bhonsle royalty in shining brass was mounted. It looked good and impressive.

An equestrian statue of Chhattrapati Shivaji Maharaj with couple of cannons below the pedestal in the centre of the courtyard looked beautiful and impressive.

A two-story facade of the Senior Bhonsle Palace was not impressive at all.

A family tree going back almost eight generations, even before Chhattrapati Shivaji Maharaj, is displayed in a Small veranda in the centre of this building.

The family tree and the history of the Bhonsle dynasty were explained by our 'walk' conductor. I must confess I did not pay much attention.

We also saw the armoury maintained at the palace.

A small room. Three side walls of which were full of hundreds of mounted swords, knives, bows and arrows, spears and javelins and other contemporary weapons. An impressive collection.

The Palace is a private property and is currently occupied by three surviving heirs of the Bhonsale dynasty.

After having seen many palaces all over the country, this came as as a bit of a let down.

This wound up our walk and visit to Motha Rajwada.